Lucknow and the Art of Chikankari
If you are watching the beguiling BBC production of Vikram Seth’s A Suitable Boy, I am sure you are being swept away by the visual feast of wonderful locations and sumptuous costumes. Much of the filming has been done in the city of Lucknow; not often visited by tourists; but should definitely be on your list of places to visit.
The Chota Imambara ,Lucknow.
As the Mughal Empire disintegrated, many independent states emerged. The state of Avadh was established by Asaf-ud-Daula in 1775 and his court resided in the city of Lucknow. The city was famous as a cultural centre and the Nawabs were renowned for their refined and extravagant lifestyle and their patronage of the arts. Music, poetry and dance flourished and during this time many magnificent buildings were erected, most famously, the Bara Imambara complex. Built in 1784 by Asaf-ud-Daula, it was devised as a famine relief project to provide much needed employment for the population while retaining their dignity and skills. It was said that while one group of workers was busy with its construction during the day, another group dismantled it at night thus prolonging the time to finish it.
Lucknow is also famous for the exquisite art of Chikankari . Chikan is a delicate and very skilled embroidery technique. Different patterns and effects depend on the stitches and the thickness of the thread. To produce an embroidered piece requires the following steps:
Design. Engraving. Block Printing. Embroidery. Washing and Finishing.
The choice of the stitch creates the lovely designs embroidered on finest silk, muslin and mal mal cotton. There are numerous styles of embroidery and they create beautiful texture and embellishment that makes chikan so refined and distinctive.
My first visit to Lucknow was way back in 2007 and I have an ongoing love affair with the city. At that time I was introduced to the Srivastra family and we have been working together making beautiful collections of homeware and clothes ever since.
With Nita and Nitin Srivastava , taken in 2011 on their rooftop. We sit there in the cool of the evening watching the neighbours flying their kites, ducking and diving in the fading light.
Some examples of chikan embroidered pieces made exclusively for Jaadu Boutique by Saptrishi
Silk georgette hand embroidered dress made for Jaadu Boutique by Saptrishi.
Pure cotton hand embroidered bed linen
Simple but stunning homeware and soft furnishings
Exquisite detail with chikan hand embroidery on a malmal cotton angrakha.